Rabbits have one of the most specific digestive systems of any companion animal. What they eat does not just affect their health — it is the engine of their entire body. Feed them right, and everything else gets easier: their coat shines, their energy is steady, and their risk of serious illness drops dramatically.
This guide covers every food category, what is safe, what to avoid, and exactly how much to feed. Bookmark it. You will come back to it.
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1. Hay — The Foundation of Everything
Hay should make up 80–90% of your rabbit's diet. Not 70%. Not sometimes. Always. A rabbit's digestive system is designed to process constant, high-fiber plant material. When hay is the primary food, their gut stays healthy, their teeth wear down properly, and they are far less likely to develop serious conditions like GI stasis or dental disease.
Types of Hay
Timothy Hay is the most recommended for adult rabbits. It has the right fiber-to-protein ratio and is widely available. Look for fresh, green, smelling hay — not brown or dusty.
Orchard Grass is a good alternative or supplement. It is softer than timothy and many rabbits prefer it. You can mix the two to encourage variety.
Meadow Hay is a mix of grasses rather than a single variety. It offers natural variety but can be less consistent in nutrition. Good for mixing with timothy.
Oat Hay and Hay Cubes are useful for rabbits who are picky eaters or as supplemental roughage, but should not be the primary hay for most rabbits.
How Much Hay?
Your rabbit should have access to a pile of hay at least the size of their body every day. Do not let the hay run out — refilling should be a automatic twice-daily check, same as checking water.
Signs Your Hay Is Good
- Fresh, sweet smell — not musty or dusty
- Green color, not yellow or brown
- Stems are flexible, not brittle
- No mold, wet spots, or visible debris
Storage Tip
Keep hay in a cool, dry place off the floor. In humid climates, buy in smaller quantities to avoid mold. If your hay smells bad, throw it out — do not feed it.
2. Pellets — A Supporting Role
Pellets are the one food rabbits do not actually need — a rabbit can live a perfectly healthy life on hay alone, supplemented with fresh vegetables. That said, pellets are a convenient way to ensure your rabbit gets balanced minerals, especially on a busy schedule. The key is using them as a supplement, not the main event.
What to Look for in a Pellet
- High fiber — at least 18%, ideally 20–25%
- Low protein — adult rabbits need no more than 12–14% protein. High protein leads to obesity and kidney stress.
- No added seeds, dried fruit, or colored bits — these are marketing tricks, not nutrition
- Plain, timothy-based — avoid mixes with corn, peas, or grains
How Many Pellets?
Adult rabbits: Approximately 1/4 cup of pellets per 6 pounds of body weight per day. For an average 6-pound rabbit, that is roughly 1/4 cup — not a full bowl.
Young rabbits (under 6 months): Unlimited pellets are fine — they need the calories and calcium for growth. After 6 months, start reducing to adult portions.
Senior or overweight rabbits: Cut pellets further or eliminate them entirely, relying on hay and vegetables for nutrition.
Common Mistake
Many owners overfeed pellets because the bag tells them to. The bag wants you to buy more. Your rabbit does not need a full bowl of pellets — it needs hay available all day and a measured portion of pellets once or twice daily.
3. Vegetables — Daily Variety
Fresh vegetables are essential daily nutrition for rabbits — they provide vitamins, hydration, and enrichment. Aim for a minimum of 2 cups of mixed vegetables per day for a 6-pound rabbit.
Safe Daily Vegetables (High Fiber, Low Sugar)
- Romaine lettuce — safe daily, high in water
- Butter lettuce — safe, mild
- Cilantro — safe daily, high in antioxidants
- Parsley — safe daily in moderation (high in calcium)
- Basil — safe, anti-inflammatory properties
- Spinach — safe in limited amounts (high in oxalates)
- Kale — safe in limited amounts (can cause gas)
- Bell peppers — any color, safe and low in sugar
- Cucumber — safe, mostly water — good for hydration
- Celery — safe but cut into small pieces (stringy)
- Zucchini — safe, low in oxalates
- Bok choy — safe, nutritious
- Carrot tops — safe, high in calcium
Vegetables to Limit (High Oxalates or Calcium)
- Spinach — limit to a few times per week
- Kale — limit to a few times per week
- Parsley — limit to a small handful per day
- Swiss chard — limit, can cause gas
How to Introduce Vegetables
If your rabbit is new to vegetables, introduce one at a time and wait 24 hours to watch for digestive upset (soft cecotropes, diarrhea, or lethargy). Once you have confirmed each vegetable is safe, mix varieties for nutritional balance.
Washing
Always wash vegetables thoroughly. When possible, choose organic to avoid pesticide residue. Peel if you are uncertain about the source.
4. Fruits — The Occasional Treat
Fruits are high in natural sugars and should be treated as a special occasion, not a daily snack. Think of fruit as your rabbit's equivalent of a candy bar — loved, but not healthy in large quantities.
Safe Fruits (Given Sparingly — 1–2 Times Per Week Max)
- Apple — remove seeds and core, give flesh only
- Banana — high in sugar, very small pieces only
- Strawberries — safe, high in water
- Blueberries — safe, antioxidant-rich
- Raspberries — safe, mild
- Pineapple — small amounts only
- Melon — safe, high in water
- Peach — remove pit, give flesh only
- Pear — small amounts, remove seeds
- Mango — safe in small amounts
Serving Size Guide for Fruit
A safe portion is about 1–2 tablespoons of fruit per 6 pounds of body weight, 1–2 times per week. Banana and grapes are the highest in sugar — give these rarely and in very small amounts.
Never Feed These Parts of Fruit
- Apple seeds — contain cyanide compounds
- Cherry pits — toxic, choking hazard
- Peach and nectarine pits — toxic, choking hazard
- Avocado skin and pit — toxic to rabbits
- Rhubarb leaves — toxic
5. Store-Bought Treats — Read the Label
Most commercial rabbit treats sold in pet stores are designed to appeal to humans, not to nourish rabbits. Colorful drops, yogurt chips, honey sticks, and seed sticks are not appropriate for rabbit digestion and can cause serious health problems over time.
What to Avoid in Store-Bought Treats
- Yogurt drops or "yogurt" anything — rabbits cannot digest dairy. Yogurt drops are marketed because they look cute, not because they are healthy.
- Seeds and nuts — high fat, wrong fiber type, can cause digestive impaction
- Honey or molasses — unnecessary sugar, can attract insects and promote obesity
- Colored or glazed treats — added sugar and artificial ingredients
- Grain-based treats (biscuits, cookies, cereal) — wrong digestive profile, can disrupt gut flora
Better Treat Alternatives
- Fresh herbs — basil, cilantro, mint
- Small piece of fruit (as described above)
- Dried apple slices (no added sugar)
- Oat hay or meadow hay as a snack alternative
- Willow sticks or apple wood sticks for chewing
If You Buy Commercial Treats
Read the ingredient list. The first ingredient should be a plant-based fiber (like timothy hay or oat hulls). Avoid anything with sugar, dairy, honey, or grain as a primary ingredient. Treats should make up no more than 5% of your rabbit's diet.
6. Toxic Foods — The Full List
This section is the most critical in the entire guide. These foods can cause serious illness or death in rabbits. Memorize this list.
Foods That Are Toxic to Rabbits
- Onions and garlic — alliums are toxic to rabbits, cause blood cell destruction
- Avocado — contains persin, fatal in sufficient quantities
- Chocolate — theobromine is toxic to most animals, rabbits included
- Caffeine — any coffee, tea, or energy product is dangerous
- Iceberg lettuce — contains lactucarium which is toxic; also has minimal nutrition
- Potato and potato skins — too starchy, glycoalkaloids are toxic
- Raw beans — toxic, causes severe digestive distress
- Rhubarb leaves — toxic, can cause fatal crystal formation
- Corn, corn cobs — cannot be digested, causes fatal impaction
- Walnuts and macadamia nuts — wrong fat profile, potential toxicity
- Mushrooms — some species are toxic, avoid all
- Cabbage — can cause severe gas and digestive upset
- Bread and pasta — processed grains cause obesity and digestive problems
- Seeds (sunflower, pumpkin, etc.) — high fat, wrong fiber type
- Sugar and artificial sweeteners — zero nutrition, severe gut disruption
If Your Rabbit Eats Something Toxic
Remove the food immediately. Call your vet or an emergency rabbit vet — do not wait for symptoms to appear. Bring a sample or photo of what was eaten so the vet can assess the risk. Signs of poisoning include lethargy, loss of appetite, bloating, diarrhea, and difficulty breathing.
7. Portion Guide at a Glance
Use this as your daily reference. Adjust slightly based on your rabbit's weight, activity level, and age.
| Food | Daily Amount | Frequency | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hay | Unlimited — pile the size of their body | Always available | Refresh twice daily |
| Pellets | 1/4 cup per 6 lbs body weight | Once or twice daily | Timothy-based, no added sugars |
| Leafy Vegetables | 2 cups per 6 lbs body weight | Daily — at least 3 varieties | Wash thoroughly, introduce slowly |
| Fruits | 1–2 tablespoons per 6 lbs | 1–2 times per week max | Remove seeds and pits |
| Herbs | Small handful as supplement | Daily is fine | Cilantro, basil, mint — good variety |
| Store-Bought Treats | None recommended | Avoid | Use herbs or fruit instead |
Water
Always keep fresh water available in a heavy ceramic bowl (not a bottle — bowls encourage natural drinking and better hydration). Change the water at least once daily, more often in hot weather.
The Core Rule: Hay First, Everything Else Second
If you walk away from this guide with only one thing, let it be this: your rabbit's life depends on hay. Not pellets, not carrots, not the fancy treats in the pet store. Hay. Keep it in front of them always, and everything else becomes a reasonable supplement to an otherwise healthy diet.
Start with unlimited hay, measured pellets, a daily mix of vegetables, and fruit as a rare reward. That formula has sustained millions of healthy rabbits — it will work for yours too.
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